First things first, despite the red hair I have no known Irish roots. However, when you have the opportunity to spend a weekend in Northern Ireland with a lovely fellow auxiliar and round trip flights for only 3o euro total…you take it. The possibility of seeing the Northern Lights and the promise of great food are just added bonuses. Of course not everything can go to plan, and waking up with a fever added on to horrible congestion threatening to turn you into ‘the blob’ is not exactly how you want to start a whirlwind international vacation. Read on to see how the trip ended up being a once in a lifetime Irish adventure that couldn’t actually have been planned!
Friday:
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So technically we left Spain for Ireland on Thursday, but arrived right around midnight. Unfortunately I came down with a bacterial yuckiness, and was running a fever while we were travelling! Despite that, the trip was smooth and we had no problems getting from the airport to our hotel (took the airporter bus into the bus station…right across the street from our hotel). The Holiday Inn Belfast was lovely, clean and modern with a perfect location in the center of the city literally across the street from the main bus and train stations.
Friday morning we checked out (and got to leave our luggage!) to hunt down some brunch and see a bit of the city before our 12:30 bus out to Derry. The place we initially chose wasn’t open, which was fine because we ended up at Harlem Cafe. Just take a look at their menu! Budget tip: brunch is great because not only do the hours tend to work better with travel, but it’s two meals for the price of 1; especially if you can get a to-go box for the leftovers.
3 buses later (not complaining because the longest one had charging ports AND wifi) we finally made it up to Sandrock Hostel at the most northern point of Ireland in Malin Head. Just take a look at this view when we arrived! The owners are lovely, and in our 20 minute tour we learned almost everything about the (very small) area around the hostel. Since I was still sick, and nightlife in Malin Head is non-existent, Friday night consisted of homemade bone broth provided by one of our new friends, a pint of Guinness at the local pub, and chatting with the 2 other guests with a cuppa around a wood burning stove. Did I mention that sometimes you can see the northern lights from the area? We didn’t, but still got a lovely view of the stars reflecting off of the Atlantic.
Saturday:
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If there’s one thing that travel teaches you is that while you have to make plans…you also have to be ok with those plans changing. In our case they definitely changed for the better! One of the girls staying at the hostel was headed the way we were planning to get to Belfast, so for the price of a tank of gas we had an impromptu road trip. To make it even better, the weather was absolutely fantastic, with the sun showing off why Ireland is the Emerald Isle.
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From Malin Head in Donegal (btw also a Star Wars Rogue One filming location), we followed the coast to Derry stopping at the oldest bridge in Ireland which was commisioned (supposedly) by St. Patrick himself in the 5th century! We stayed in Derry about an hour for a true Irish brunch at Cappucino’s for less than a 5er…for my American readers, beans and toast isn’t half bad. Adding to the “couldn’t have planned this better” vibe, we were left Derry with a full rainbow over the Peace Bridge. From Derry we followed the Northern Irish coast, stopping for photos at the famous Dunluce Castle and Giant’s Causeway. By this point we were nice and chilly, so we stopped at Bushmills Inn for a hot chocolate by the fire at this incr.
Perks of doing a road trip instead of public transportation is the flexibility to stop at places like Asda…which is owned by Walmart and was a pleasant taste of home as well as a great place to stock up on Irish tea and peanut butter Oreos! We finally rolled into our hostel, Global Village Belfast, around 8 Saturday evening. The staff were lovely and the rooms were fine, but I’m not a huge fan of co-ed bathrooms and if the hostel was full I imagine the bathroom situation would be a nightmare. One of the advantages is the location right in the heart of the university area. With both of us feeling a little under the weather, having a plethora of cheap food options within a 5 minute walk was great. Since good burgers are in short supply in Cordoba, we took a chance on a place called Ribs & Bibs because of the burgers named after American presidents. We split the “Obama” burger, and while it wasn’t the best burger I’ve ever had it was still tasty and the ‘chips’ were top notch. As if I wasn’t already convinced that it was meant to be that we were in Belfast, we popped by the Belfast Empire Music Hall for a drink. While the crowd was older and Katie’s Pinot Grigio was barely drinkable, the band was killing it with Boston’s “More than a Feeling”…which is the ONE song with my name in it. Crazy right?
Sunday:
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Since we had to leave for the airport at 2, our Sunday itinerary only included brunch (again), St. George’s Market, and strolling around the lovely Queen’s University campus and Belfast botanical garden. For brunch we headed around the corner from the hostel to the very popular Maggie May’s with tried and true Irish breakfast staples and great coffee. A pleasant walk through town got us to St. George’s Market, which has existed since 1604 with the current building dating to the late 19th century. The arts, food, and music scenes are thriving in Belfast, all of which you can see at George’s on Sunday! I was kind of sad that I had already eaten because there were so many amazing options for every type of cuisine you could think of. What I did end up getting were some lovely inspirational prints from Itty Bitty Book Co that are currently hanging on my wall.
Taking the long back to the hostel included the Belfast Botanical Garden and Queen’s University. Both were stunning on a rare sunny day, and I have to admit I’m a little jealous of the university students going about their Sunday business like their campus isn’t absolutely amazing. One thing that I never get over living here in Europe, is how much history many of these buildings contain. It’s something that’s lacking in the States simply due to the shorter history of city planning and architecture (not discounting our rich Native American history, but the majority of their constructions don’t exist for us to see today).
All in all, this was one of my favorite trips I’ve taken. Cheap transportation, no rush, rich culture, great food, enjoyable company, phenomenal weather, what more can you ask for? I’m already looking at heading back to Ireland again, and hoping that my streak of luck continues! What are some places you’ve visited you can’t wait to return to?
Stay royal,
Maryanne